Days 8 and 9 - I'll Never Leave Montana, Brother / Saddle Up

Day 8 - I'll Never Leave Montana, Brother

Glacier National Park - Going to the Sun Road

The day began lazily as a cold, Northern rain fell steadily on the RV. In fact, the forecast for the day would hold temperatures no warmer than 56 degrees with periods of rain throughout, but there would be no dampening our spirits. We were set to explore Blackfeet Nation, Glacier National Park, and the famed Going to the Sun Road that would see us driving high up on Hope Mountain for a long hike, weather or no weather.

We waited for the heavy stuff to pass before venturing outside to determine how to dress and what to bring, ready to spend hours away from the RV, though on this day we would be leaving K9 and Moultrie behind. Seems K9's hike through the Grand Tetons was enough for his 82 year old legs, and I certainly didn't blame him. 

What I figured would be a problem to compromise as to where we could make our hikes and explore the splendor of these mountains along the Canadian border turned into a minor inconvenience. Entering the Glacier Visitor Center and speaking with a Ranger there, we already knew Big Booty Judy was unable to navigate the twists and turns of the Going to the Sun Road, so we formulated a plan to head toward another area of the park known as Two Medicine where we believed we could park and hike there. Only we were informed by the Ranger that our RV was unable to go down those roads, too. Feeling disappointed and mildly frustrated, the Ranger then informed us we could take the free shuttle up the Mountain to drop us at any of the five trail heads along the Going to the Sun Road, and that these busses ran every thirty minutes throughout the day until 7pm MST.

EUREKA! And so Susan, Conor, Charlie, and myself clamored out to the pickup area and after about ten minutes, we were headed up the mountain!

The driver of the bus was a woman named Ms. Pam, a native of the Blackfeet tribe whose legacy was in driving looky-loos and hikers up the Going to the Sun Road, as did her Grandfather before her. She was proud of her work, gleeful in explaining the park, its nuances, its secrets, and its history. As we drove along, Ms. Pam explained that going to the top of the Mountain and hiking back down would not be recommended on this day, as the clouds hung about the mountain tops making visibility near zero, even walking. But she also explained that a hike around St. Mary Lake and its magnificent water falls would be just fine, and easy enough for a six-year old to do as well.

Departing the bus we began a descent toward the river that would eventually lead us back up through a winding trail through cedars, aspens, and birch, the forest floor covered in all manner of ferns and wild flowers. The rain had all but stopped now, more of a mist than an actual rain, and the cool temperatures made the walk comfortable, the chilly, damp air no longer seeming to matter at all as we collectively marveled at the beauty of this place.

On our 3.8 mile hike we saw roaring waterfalls, steep cliff faces, beautiful vegetation, and some wildlife, too, including a mule deer who was casually walking along the trail betwixt two groups of hikers like she were a pet just walking along with them. The soft misty rain only seemed to enhance the hiking experience, making the colors of the forest as bright and as vibrant as anything I could remember. But it wasn't until we caught our bus back down the mountain that we had the greatest thrill of all.

When the hike was said and done and we were loaded into the bus, the driver received a radio call that a large grizzly bear could be seen about one-hundred yards from the roadway grazing in a meadow. As the bus pulled toward what the driver described as a "Bear Jam", a traffic phenomenon when drivers stop their cars and get out with cameras to stand in the road and look on at the wildlife and snap pictures, there through the windows would make the outline of a large brown animal rustling around through the flowers and thick growth, but the view was obstructed until he finally turned and stood for a moment, then making his way across our field of vision, his profile in full view. The massive predator lumbered along without a care in the world, and after a moment he was gone from site and the Bear Jam was relieved. And I, for one, was all too happy to have seen him from the safety of the van, as we were only about a mile from where we were hiking when we spotted this apex predator.

After the hike the weather finally broke, but the camp would be so soggy that we elected to not cook outdoors and instead stop into a local joint for pizza, wings, and pitchers of beer. The nightcap would be a nice fire on an otherwise chilly evening, and conversations of gratitude on such a special and memorable day.

Day 9 - Saddle Up

Glacier National Park to Cody, WY

The reason this post is a two-parter is because the girls had a plane to catch back in Bozeman, and our four and a half our ride south through Montana would be made with an early start so as to get them there on time. The planning worked out perfectly, save for my being slightly in the dog-house with Susan - her jealousy and envy on full display as the girls were flying back toward JFK airport and New York City, and the Three Amigos were headed to Cody, Wyoming and the World Famous Cody Night Rodeo!

We made the airport with no trouble at all and right on time, but the parting was melancholy, if not down right sad. The time we spent all together was far too short, even if we packed those moments full of memories and fun, but we really do get on well together, and so the goodbye was tearful all the way around.

Leaving the airport we had another three hour ride to Cody from Bozeman, and fortunately the weather turned and the drive would be sunny and clear. The landscape in this part of the country changes so dramatically and so quickly that it's sometimes difficult to comprehend. From the jagged mountains of Glacier Park to the steep plateaus of central Montana to the wide open prairie and farmland as far as the eye can see and then on to the cragged and rocky high desert East of Yellowstone and on into Cody, those hours behind the wheel afford a great many views worth remembering. All the while Conor could only talk about one thing... The Rodeo.

When we passed through Cody, WY after our time in Yellowstone three years ago, we saw enough of the town to know that we really wanted to come back, but more than anything, we wanted to come back for the rodeo. When I figured out that our travels could take us back through this part of the country once more, I immediately bought tickets to surprise the boys, and frankly, it's all Conor's thought about in his spare time. So much so that I was worried he would build his expectations too high and be disappointed, and I most certainly didn't want that.

Expectations were exceeded.

The Cody Night Rodeo is one of the best experiences I can remember while being out on the road. Roughly three hours of loud music, cold beer, real-life working cowboys and cowgirls, and representing all parts of the country. With riders from as far away as Florida, New Mexico, and Washington State, and visitors from all over the world, this is one of the absolute must see attractions if you're ever passing through Wyoming on a weekend in the Summer. The sites, sounds, views, and events were incredible, and certainly worthy of the $25 ticket. I would do this again if ever passing back through. Hell, I may even plan for it...

Of note, K9 grew up in the foothills of Colorado Springs  as well as Gunnison, Colorado and did his fair share of horseback riding and cowboying as a young man. It was such a pleasure to see him don his cowboy hat, Levi jeans, and Cowboy boots, and the smile on his face throughout rivaled that of Conor's. The ole Cowboy was enthralled with the action, and I was so proud to have the opportunity to share it with him.

Today we saddle up to the Buffalo Bill Center for the west before making our way into South Dakota to see Crazy Horse and Custer... 

Gidde up! Down the road we go...